Out Cold - European Tour Diary

This was written while on the road during our European tour in January 2003. I took a cheap laptop along with me and updated this page from the road as often as I could (generally about every 2 or 3 days). I added these pictures a few weeks after I got back. Unless otherwise specified, all photos taken by me.

30 Dec -- OK, this isn't part of the tour, but I figured it might be of casual interest to someone, so what the hell. I'm spending 3 days here with my friend Ţórunn and having the most amazing time seeing some of this incredible country. Places like Ţingvellir, Geysir, Gullfoss, and Bláa Lóniđ are truly mind-blowing and cannot be put into words so I'm not going to even try!! I went through almost all the film I brought for the whole trip in just two days. Everywhere you look here is like a postcard image. Unbelievable. I wish I could stay here longer, but like the Stones say, you can't always get what you want.

The barren road leading out from Mosfellsbćr	Ţingvellir, the old Viking assembly plains	Ţingvellir	Strokkur in mid-eruption, Geysir	The Strokkur Rock
Gullfoss. These pictures don't even do it justice. This was unbelievable.			We witness a strange, torchlit procession from atop Perlan in Reykjavík. Great view of Faxaflói in the background.

1 Jan -- I've been in Copenhagen now for just over a full day, hanging out with Tommas from Kick N Punch Records and his girlfriend Lea, very gracious hosts to be sure! I was very depressed about leaving Iceland just in time to miss their supposedly unforgettable fireworks in Reykjavík, but I thought, "Well I'm sure there'll be something decent in Copenhagen." I was not prepared for what I encountered. We braved the bone-chilling temperature and walked the streets of the city just after midnight. I've never seen anything like it in my life. The streets were filled with people setting off their own fireworks, something I just learned is customary in a lot of cities over here, unlike in the US where fireworks displays are arranged by the city and the public are just spectators. Here, it's the public itself that creates the displays and it's all over the place, not just in certain locations. You're walking down the street and shit's going off all around you. You really have to watch out because there's no kind of supervision, anything could happen, especially because almost everyone is blitzed out of their mind on alcohol and I guess a lot of people get seriously hurt. There were ambulances and police cars driving all over the place. It was seriously like a fucking war zone. It was totally amazing. I'm here for a couple more days before the tour starts in Italy. Should be cool. Unfortunately, I got a call from the promoter in Greece when I got here telling me that the 4th show there (in Kavala) has been cancelled due to a bunch of idiocy that went down there recently. Thanks guys!!!

With a few hours to myself upon arriving in Copenhagen I walk around aimlessly and, much to my surprise, find myself at the spot where the cover of the Amdi Petersens Armé record was shot.

3 Jan -- Just here briefly to catch my flight out of Malmö. I was awoken at 3:00 the other morning by a call from Mark telling me that the rest of the guys missed their fucking flight! Unbelievable!! Luckily they were able to arrange some more tickets and, if everything goes smoothly from here on (fat chance, right?), we'll all make it to Rome in time for the first show later on today. Anyway, yesterday, Tommas and I walked around the city of Copenhagen for hours just seeing everything there is to see there, particularly Christiania, the bizarre little community that lives right in the heart of the city but is like totally separate. Well, I should be in Rome soon to start the tour...hopefully...

v v v THESE PICTURES ARE FROM DENMARK v v v
Entering Christiania	More wandering around the city. I don't think this shop would gain mainstream acceptance in the US.	My über-hospitable hosts Tommas & Lea

4 Jan -- Well, we miraculously all made it to Rome in time for the first show, despite all the delays and confusion. The weather down here is much nicer, of course. The show was at a big squat in Rome called Bencivenga. It was a really good show considering no one really knew who we were. People were very friendly, enthusiastic, and helpful. The opening bands were really good as well. For breakfast in the morning they made us this kind of spaghetti omelet with wine to drink! Sounds pretty cliché, I know, but it was very good, nonetheless. Everyone was up so late drinking and got up so late in the morning that we had to take this special fast (expensive) train in order to get to the next show on time. Our financial situation was not helped one bit by the fiery little old Italian guy who helped us get our luggage to the train who thought we were these rich Americans or something and could afford some exorbitant tip. He was screaming, gesturing wildly, and really carrying on, demanding we pay him 30 euros!!! We shoulda just kicked his ass onto the third rail, but we're too damn nice. We didn't pay him what he wanted, but we still paid way too much. Jaye says the cheap beer here is very good. Thanks to Gianluca for coming through for us with the merch, which arrived from the label much too close for comfort!

Mark chats with Christiano

Micah outside Bencivenga

Having breakfast before hitting the train station

5 Jan -- We made it to Bari last night just in time to go directly from the train to the club, eat, soundcheck, set up merch and play. Time was very tight, but thankfully it all went off without a hitch. Last night's show was even better than Rome, which I don't think anyone was expecting. Really enthusiastic crowd. People were carrying Mark around in the air and just really getting into it. This is the type of show that makes all the bullshit worthwhile. We would like to thank Mario, Georgio, and Andrea for really making sure things went off smoothly and professionally. Also, Andrea's parents who hooked us up with some great food to take with us on the ferry. Fortunately we have almost all day to hang out here before we have to be at the ferry to go to Greece. It shouldn't be a mad, last minute dash like yesterday was.

On the train to Bari	Static Freedom at the Maltese Club	Out Cold at the Maltese Club
Mario and Giorgio, our "chaperones"	Enjoying the coastal vineyards, getting ready to leave Bari	Out Cold at the Maltese Club

7 Jan -- None of us really got any sleep on the ferry because we opted for the cheap tickets and didn't get rooms to sleep in. Greece is quite beautiful, especially the weather. Anyway, we had plenty of time before the show, so we walked around the city a bit and saw some pretty cool shit. Dead Stop came all the way from Belgium to play the three shows here with us. They are quite good. Very inspired by Negative Approach as you might guess from the name. Unfortunately, the show last night in Patra was plagued with technical problems. The PA system kept crapping out, but somehow they managed to get it up and running and get the opening bands through their sets. Unfortunately, during our set it crapped out and could not be resuscitated, so we only got through about 3 or 4 very horrible-sounding songs before we could just go on no longer. It was quite possibly the worst show we've ever played. Very disappointing for our Greek debut. Good thing no one really paid to get in so we didn't feel like people were ripped off.

On the ferry to Greece

Waiting to be picked up from the ferry

In front of a cool fountain

No, this isn't a postcard. I took this picture. Great freakin view of the harbor!

Atop a steep stairway leading down to the city

Same view, basically, but this captures the scene better, I think

8 Jan -- I'm sitting in a dark squat sleeping room as I write this. The show last night here in Athens was brilliant. Infinitely better than the debacle the night before in Patra. It's obvious by the people that show up to the gigs here (both their quantity and their attitude) that Greece is one of those few places left that are unspoiled by wave after wave of touring bands coming through their midst. They take a pretty much unknown band like us and show us loads of support, not just with their attendance, but they totally get into the music, take a chance and buy a record or two, maybe some stickers and a t-shirt. This kind of enthusiasm is sadly all too foreign to us. Very refreshing to play gigs like this and see things go the way they should for a change.

9 Jan -- Hanging out in Thessaloniki, a big college town in the central part of Greece (still along the coast, of course). It was a pretty long drive here from Athens. We had to take two different trains as well as a car to get here, so it was quite the pain in the ass. The gig was at one of the colleges here. It was a really good show. Cool opening band, the Vodka Juniors, and a good crowd despite a little fighting. I guess this area is known for a lot of troublemakers, and indeed, it was people from here that caused the show in Kavala today to be cancelled. Thanks guys!!! "You stab our backs when you trash our halls." Anyway, there's always an upside to having a day off on tour. You lose more money, but you get a chance to wash your filthy clothes and get some much needed rest. So we're hanging out here at Eliza's place (thanks Eliza) just recharging our batteries so to speak. Just got off the phone with me mum. Apparently they're getting hit with snowstorm after snowstorm back home in Massachusetts. Can't say I'm bummed to be missing that. Tomorrow we have another long drive up to Macedonia and we say goodbye to the nice warm weather. We would like to extend a huge thanks to Kostas, who set up all the shows here in Greece and did a really good job holding everything together despite some unexpected shit. Also to his girlfriend Mantha who was an enourmous help as well.

Beautiful scenery on the drive to Thessaloniki	Out Cold at Steki Viologiko, Thessaloniki
Dead Stop at Steki Viologiko	Mantha, Kostas, and Jaye at the train station	Micah gets some snacks for the trip	Boarding that crusty old train to Macedonia

10 Jan -- On the train to Skopje. Looks like a train from the 50's or something. It crawls at a snail's pace and stops for seemingly endless amounts of time. Luckily we got an extremely early start so there's no worries about being late. We just crossed the border about 15 minutes ago. So far what I've seen of the country (from what's passing by my window) is pretty bleak. Lots of land being cultivated for grapes or something and lots of decrepit, ruined structures. I have no idea what to expect here. Should be interesting if nothing else.

Not having slept the night before, we're all a bit tired

The Greek/Macedonian border crossing

View from the train

11 Jan -- On the road out of Macedonia. Our first impression of the place wasn't the most positive. We were hassled literally the instant we stepped off the train by these two sketchy taxi drivers with bad hairdos. The area around the train station in Skopje was a dump. Asking around for a way to call the promoter there I was getting somewhat nervous. After we met with Tosho I started to relax a bit. Then, shortly after, while we were walking through the center of the city, Micah was pickpocketed by a throng of little gypsy children. As if we need to lose any more damn money! After regaining our composure over some quick beers & coffees we took off for Kumanovo, where the show actually was. The show was really good. Tons of people, and really good crowd. Again, not too many people make the trek to this place (I guess we were the first US hardcore band to ever play here!), so they appreciate bands more. Unfortunately, for some ridiculous reason, like half the people didn't pay to get into the gig, which put a strain on the promoter. Luckily, though, he came through for us and gave us what was agreed upon, something that is sadly all too rare in these circumstances. Thanks to Marx for taking such good care of us! The temperature has already plummeted severely since yesterday. Getting a taste of what's in store for us in the coming weeks. We have a pretty long drive to Belgrade ahead of us, but we've hooked up with Milkman now so we're pretty settled in the old Kangaroo van, not humping our shit around on trains, buses, or cavalcades of cars, so that's a plus. It took them three days for them to meet us there as they had to drive all the way from the Netherlands. Poor guys had to sleep in the van at -15ş temperatures in southern Germany.

Micah getting filched!

Having some drinks at a café

Waiting for a taxi to Kumanovo (cool castle in the background)

Group shot with Marx before leaving

Beautiful Skopje!

13 Jan -- Driving out of Yugoslavia. The conditions are much better than they were on the drive up here. It took us about 2 hours to get through the border crossing and it had already started to snow. By the time we were a few kilometers into Yugoslavia the temperature had become brutally cold and the snow was making driving difficult & slow. I imagine the road we took through the center of the country straight up to Belgrade would be one of, if not the biggest thoroughfares in Yugoslavia, so it was a bit of a suprise when the road became really narrow & crappy with potholes and whatnot. Between the bad weather, shitty roads & border delay it took us a total of ten hours to reach Belgrade. The trip was quite harrowing. We got to Belgrade really late, about 2100. Fortunately, shows here normally run extremely late so it wasn't a problem. By the time we unloaded all the shit, had something to eat, set up and everything, it was around midnight...and there were 6 fucking bands on the bill!! The place was packed with hundreds of people and setting up the merch was a total nightmare. They didn't have a place for it so we had to set up behind the bar. It was horrible. We didn't take the stage until 0330! It was the latest show we've ever played. It was probably also the best show we've ever played. The club was this huge catacomb of rooms & chambers. Very cool. The sound system was deafeningly loud. The place was packed despite the ridiculously late hour. There was about 30 people on the stage with us while we played. The place was just charged, totally into it. I knew there were a few fans here who go back with us to our early years but I was not expecting the show to be as good as it was. Tons of people were shouting along with the songs, both old & new. It was a great, great show. I don't even know what time it was when we got back to the flat to sleep but I was barely conscious. It was probably the longest, most exhausting night I've ever experienced, but the show was so good it was worth it. We tried to set up a show in Bosnia for yesterday but it didn't happen. Thank god because I don't think we could've done it. The previous night in Belgrade was just too much and we really needed a day off to recover. We slept late into the day yesterday & walked around the city in the late evening in the frigid sub-zero temperatures. This is the infamous eastern European mid-winter cold I was dreading. Still, the city was beautiful with it's marvelous structures & holiday lights still up. Much nicer than what we saw of Macedonia. Anyway, a big thanks to Alexandar for setting everything up so well here. We just now crossed the Croatian border. It's always a relief getting through these borders, especially here in the Balkans. So far it's been relatively smooth. There's been a little greasing of palms but nothing too extreme. It really helps to play dumb and it's amazing how often the authorities & police here give up their questioning when they have to speak English. We're still waiting for the other guys to get through the border (we're travelling in two vehicles). Apparently they're having a harder time than we did. If all goes well we'll be in Zagreb in about 3 hours. Hopefully things get on earlier than in Belgrade.

Crowd of people waiting to get into the show

Walking the streets of Belgrade

Out Cold at Akademija

Exhausted the next day

Both bands, drivers & Alexandar

Out Cold / Milkman group shot

Jaye and driver Mark goofing around

Alexandar stocks up on Out Cold shirts before we split

Bombed out building in Belgrade

Roadside breakfast on the way to Croatia

14 Jan -- In the van trying to get out of Zagreb. Not having the easiest time. The show here last night was so-so. It was a nice club, well-organized, good sound, good food, good turnout for a Monday night, but the people weren't really that into it. They just sorta stood there & didn't seem to really get into it that much. They were probably just there for something to do...not really music fans or something. Thanks to Petar Tucman for setting the show up here. Today we have possibly the easiest drive of the tour until we get to Benelux. Only about 3 hours or so. We're really starting to get to know the Milkman guys better. Very cool guys and a great band. I had a feeling we'd get along well with them and I was totally right. I checked my email this morning and got some very sad news from my friend Melissa back in the USSA...Maurice Gibb & Mickey Finn both died a couple days ago! Man! Most of us are big Bee Gees & T. Rex fans so we're quite sad about this. Also, we recently heard about Pete Townsend's recent problems. The classic rock world's really getting shaken up while were away! I woke up this morning feeling a cold coming on. Man, I hope I don't get sick!!!!

Entering Croatia seen through a very filthy windshield	Milkman at KSET	Packing up	The two merch schlubs
Out Cold at KSET			We lose 100 punk points by going to McDonalds, but it was worth it to get some normal coffee

15 Jan -- On the road out of Ljubljana. We have a long ass drive to the next show in the Slovak Republic. We were supposed to play Budapest today, but, like Bosnia, it didn't come to fruition. Also again, it's probably for the best because that would've been very hard to pull off. As it is we're going to have to drive all day in order to get about three-quarters of the way to the next show. Anyway, yesterday's drive, which everyone told us would be a piece of cake, turned out to be a pretty damn hard piece of cake. It wasn't as far as the other's but took just as long because the town was in the middle of nowhere and we had to take these small, winding roads that we couldn't make time on. It was a really cool club and the turnout was pretty decent for a town like that on a Tuesday night. The crowd was smaller than in Zagreb, but they were more into it, so I guess it was a better show. I didn't play as well because I'm not feeling good. I hope this doesn't develop into a long-term infection like it always seems to do with me. If it does I'm looking forward to some serious misery. Keeping my fingers crossed. Thanks to Ana Slenc (who has the most amazing American accent I've ever heard, by the way) for setting us up here!

Group shot outside MKNZ	Mark is moved to show his true colors	Milkman at MKNZ	Meeri - rock n roll superstar!
Out Cold at MKNZ			Jaye does his impression of the Will Attack cover

16 Jan -- Well, yesterday was pretty uneventful. It was pretty much all driving. We opted to go through Austria instead of Hungary because we'd make better time on their roads. We ended up in Bratislava, where we stayed the night at the Hotel Sklotel. Sounds like a joke, but it's real. We had such a hard time finding the place that we thought people were putting us on. Turned out to be a nice place. Clean, quiet, and most importantly, cheap. I am in hell with this fucking cold! This is my worst nightmare come true...getting sick on tour. The drive to Zilina isn't that long from Bratislava so we should be there soon.

"Hotel Sklotel...make you wanna cry!"

John, looking very profound outside his hotel room

Can't you just feel the enthusiasm?

Roland Stevens, driver and apolsterer extrodinaire

17 Jan -- On the way to Prerov. We just crossed the Czech border a couple minutes ago. It was the most intensive border search yet. We made it through without any problems, though. Last night's show in Zilina was really good. At first it looked like it was going to be pretty lame, but by the time Milkman went on, the room had really filled up and people were really getting into it. It was like people told us about shows here...really enthusiastic crowds. Thanks to Radoslav Uhlik from KAZ Records for setting up the show there as well as here and in Austria...(and best wishes to your wife and new child! Spare me a thought when you're smoking that cigar, mate!) Last night Mark, Micah & I slept in the van and the rest of the guys slept at some rehearsal room somewhere nearby. I'm feeling considerably better today. I think I'm on the rebound!

Sers and Mark backstage at the Guru Club, Zilina	Out Cold at the Guru Club
Group shot at the Guru Club	Sers, Robin, and Mark getting ready to leave Zilina	Leaving Slovakia	Entering the Czech Republic

18 Jan -- In the van on the road to Vienna. Last night's show was in this small town called Prerov in the eastern part of the Czech Republic at a small club called Goblin. There were two local bands & us. It was a great fucking show! Crazy! The place was packed to bursting & people went totally nuts. I think the fact that it was a Friday night helped. People were just ready to let loose or something. There was bloodshed, unconsciousness, people hanging from the rafters...totally nuts. It was hot as hell in that little place, though. I could barely breathe & was bathed in sweat. It really took all I had to make it through the entire set (plus encore), especially considering that I'm still not fully recovered from my cold. Afterword, I wrung my shirt out like a dishrag! We sold a ton of records, which I couldn't believe, until I found out we were told the wrong exchange rate & were selling them for considerably less than we meant to. Still, it was amazing & one of the best shows we've ever played. Rivaling even Belgrade. This morning we went to eat at some pub that the guy from See You In Hell brought us to where we had probably the best breakfast I've ever eaten on tour. Thanks to Alesh for taking good care of everything here for us. Now we are leaving eastern Europe for the last 4 shows in the western countries. We will have very fond memories of this region. They were some of the best shows we've ever played! Hopefully these last shows won't be too much of a comedown...

Milkman at the Goblin Club

A little mirth

Out Cold at the Goblin Club

The decline of eastern civilization (end of the night wastoids)

18/19 Jan -- At least I think we're still in Austria. It's like 5 in the morning and we've been on the road for like 6 hours or so. Our next show in Belgium is like an 18-hour drive or something ridiculous like that so we had to start driving immediately after playing in Vienna. We didn't even have time to watch Rambo's set. The show was pretty good. Nothing spectacular, but OK. The venue was very cool. Seemed like an old theatre turned into a punk club/squat. Definitely the best squat we've ever played. I've been unable to sleep thus far. I hope I can, otherwise I'll be pretty fucked up when we get to Kontich. Still, I'll be happy just to get there alive. These marathon red-eye drives are not the safest propositions, but we have a good driver so I feel relatively secure. I'll just be relieved when we get there..

Somewhere in Vienna. This place was not named after Scott Wieland

Milkman at EKH

Selling merch and getting liquored up

Out Cold at EKH

19 Jan -- About halfway through Germany now. Sun's up and the worst part of the drive is over. Roland & Mark (our wonderful drivers) are holding up miraculously, surviving on liters of Red Bull and determination. The weather's fine, the roads are fine & we're making good time. We were worried we wouldn't make it to Kontich in time for the gig but now it's pretty much in the bag. I never really did get to sleep. Maybe tiny slivers of snatches but that's about it. We'll sleep well tonight at Sers' place (the drummer of Milkman). Can't wait! Should be a good show if our lack of sleep (and my seemingly perpetual state of mid-recovery) doesn't trip us up.

Jaye...the morning after. Could've been the inspiration for Death Warmed Over

Roland Steven, road warrior!

Meeri gets all up in ya face at a truck stop in Germany

John and Mark in the back of the van

19 Jan -- Just played the Lintfabriek in Kontich. We made it here with a few hours to spare and a few people even got to take showers. They had great food for the bands. This place is really well organized with big sleeping rooms upstairs and everything. Anyway, our old friends Henk (Kangaroo Records) & Wab (our driver on our first two tours here), and even Roy made the trek from Amsterdam to see us so it was like a bit of a homecoming for us. It was so great to see those guys again! The show was really good. Dead Stop were an opening band and it was nice to see those guys again. Another good show. Tomorrow night in Amsterdam should be quite nostalgic. We're playing the same venue where we recorded our live album over 4 years ago.

Outside the venue

Meeri and Wab basking in an alcoholic glow

Sers gets onstage to sing Skinned Alive (photo ruined courtesy of Wab's head)

Mark gets the last tour shirt

Jaye tends the bar and DJs

By this stage of the tour Micah has grown bitter and reclusive

21 Jan -- Hanging out at Sers' flat in Tilburg. We stayed here the night before last as well. He has a kick-ass place here and yesterday morning he made us all crepes & eggs for breakfast. The guy rules!! Anyway, last night's show was at the old OCCII in Amsterdam. It was a Monday night so it was a bit hard to pull the biggest crowd but there was a decent amount of people there. From what I was told it was a great show (I usually have to go on what people tell me about the show afterword because I am in my own world in the back there, really quite unaware of most of what happens). People were going apeshit and really getting into it. It was a nice "homecoming". Amsterdam is much more of our home than Boston in terms of heart. It's so sad there's only one more show to the tour and then it's over. Tomorrow it's the Pits in Kortrijk...another special place for us as it's the only place we've played every single time we've been here. It's almost mandatory at this point. Today we have a day off and are planning on going to a reptile museum and do some bowling. Wab tagged along for the bowling. He claims to be a champion bowler or something. He drove back here with us last night, talking shit and talking about old times and old tours. Ahhh...good times...

At the legendary OCCII	Wab just can't stop talking about his dick!	John and Roy	Jaye kissing a snake at the reptile museum	Roland tries on a unique hairpiece (that's a real tarantula)
Wab challenges a bird to a staring contest (and loses)	Just because we're at a reptile museum doesn't mean booze can not be found (this IS Europe, after all)	"Take the blockheads bowling..."	Hot bowling action!!	Group shot at bowling alley

23 Jan -- Schipol Airport, getting ready to fly out of Amsterdam. The tour's over. We played our final show last night at the Pits in Belgium. It was a typical Pits show...hot, sweaty, loud, and fun. We saw some old faces from our previous visits there. It was a really cool show...the perfect end to a great tour. We stayed at Sers' place again last night. Mark & Jaye flew out earlier today, directly to Boston. I have a 17-hour layover in Iceland on the way back to Boston (which I can't say I mind one bit!). Micah is staying in the Netherlands for a few extra days, flying home on Monday. Well, I guess this is where I'm supposed to reflect on the tour. As I've said before, this has been a great tour. In fact, I think it's safe to say this has been the best tour we've ever done, both in terms of money and in terms of crowds. I was quite worried at first. I thought this could've gone either really good or really bad but it was unlikely that it would be somewhere in between. Well, fortunately the former turned out to be the case. We've played some of our best shows ever on this tour...Athens, Belgrade, Prerov, etc. We've played some pretty unique places and met a ton of great people, especially the guys in Milkman. They are not only a great band, but some of the coolest bunch of guys we've ever met and toured with. We would like to thank them immensely for everything they did for us, particulary Sers who put us up for 3 nights, cooked for us, and was just a really bitchin host in general! Also, thanks to Henk from Kangaroo Records who helped us as well by providing the merch and van. In a few hours I'll be in Iceland, basking in it's winter darkness & cold. Tomorrow at this time I'll back in Massachusetts, coping with the onset of my always-occurring post-tour depression. OK, that's all folks. Hope you enjoyed reading about our tour and this effort wasn't a total waste of time. Over and out.

Wab selling merch at the Pits

Out Cold at the Pits

Wab, Jaye, and Henk (believe it or not, that's a scab on his face...not an askew Hitler 'stache!)

Assorted characters at the Pits. Who says urinals can't be used for seats?

My prize souvenir from the entire tour: an Icelandic bottle of Tab!!!